Chimmney Install Question.
 

Hello all, I want to put a wood stove in my Garage. It is mason block with a wood roof. I would like to have the chim. go up to the roof, make a 90 degree turn, go about 20 inches then go back 90 degree. So up over and then back up. Is this doable?

Thanks

Rock.

:tongue_ma:

We need the :rock: as we browse the threads.. haha

Sorry, have had a few beers.

Re: Chimmney Install Question.
 

You do not have very many specifics.

However, I would punch the pipe through the blockwall,

And run it up the outside, on standoffs, to a

Point about 6-8 feet above the eaves.

Just my .02

scyth

Re: Chimmney Install Question.
 

"Chim"ney generally means a masonry chimney.....which would be hard to do what you want.

I suspect you mean flue, as in a metal pipe type exhaust.....which would be possible I suppose, assuming you could find insulated type flue pipe with 90 degree turns.

In either case, I would not do it for two reasons:

1. You decrease the draw of the flue significantly with each 90 turn....you could achieve the same offset using 2 -- 45 degree angles, though it takes more space to do so, but by eliminating one 90, you would cut the loss of draw of the flue by half.

2. I assume these 90's are going to be in an area hard to access, so cleaning them would be a nightmare, meaning you probably won't, meaning you have a flue fire waiting to happen.

Re: Chimmney Install Question.
 

andy's right about the 45's; safety wise especially.
folks do the 90's but cresote will leak all sorts of ways [& i mean drip on floors etc.]. draft loss compared to a straight pipe is 80%+ i believe.

Re: Chimmney Install Question.
 

Again, Andy speaks the truth. Any change from vertical will create more resistance and problems than a vent that goes straight up. Even the one 90 that is normally located directly behind your appliance is more of an issue than an appliance that is top venting.

If you are going to get a building permit to do this install, you are most likely DOA (Dead On Arrival) right there. If your local or state building/fire codes doesn't address a "solid fuel appliance" in a garage, then NFPA which is referenced by most all of the model codes does. As of a few years ago, it is now a forbidden install. It used to be allowed if you raised the appliance 18" off the floor. The theory of raising the appliance was that this would have allowed flamable vapors to be at the floor level, but not raise up enough to the height of the actual sorce of ignition (your fire). That has since changed. If your local enforcement official is not aware of this change, and if you follow the old rule of raising the appliance, you would most likely be OK.

If you remove stupidity, more fires are caused due to improper installs that have a lack of proper clearance to combustables than any other cause. The times are countless when people that have had fires say, "we have been using that stove/fireplace/insert your own source of cause of fire, for decades and it had always been fine". The issue that caused the fire may have been a issue that can take many years, decades or even centuries to develop, it is called pyrolisis:

http://virtual.vtt.fi/virtual/innofi...g/burning.html

The wood is repeadly exposed to heat and in doing so is changed, actually chemically changed, eventually lowering the ignition temperature to where it may ignite at the same temperature that it has prevously been exposed to many, many, times.

Sooooo, the moral of the story is to be aware and careful to at the very least follow the minimum reccomendations for clearance to combustables.
My advice would be to ask the question of your local CEO before you get too far into your planning or execution of your plan and find out that your plan is flawed in their eyes.

Best of luck!

Re: Chimmney Install Question.
 

Why do you "need" to make the 90 for only 20 inches? Is it because you don't want to go through the roof? or is there another problem?

If you can keep this thing straight from the stove to the cap you will be better off.

Use something like supervent(Menards)going through the roof and single wall below the ceiling. This will help keep costs down, yet protect against the higher heat while going through the roof. The Supervent also helps with creosote buildup at the top of the flue during slow burn during those cold months

s

PS I see you are a Cornhusker. Menards has all the stuff you need to do this. I've put in 5 of these now.